Chez Soi

Adventures of a Year Abroad


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C’est Bizarre

One word that appears to be used a lot in France is “bizarre”. Said in about the same way as in the US, you understand it immediately. In language class, it is used by our professor for every irregular verb conjugations (there are many) and idioms (even more). Then, as kiddo mentioned, there’s a weirdo on the metro at least once a day that is making policy statements or acting super psycho and people shrug and say “c’est bizarre” after the guy (they’re all guys so far) gets off.

Just now, Kiddo and I are sitting in our living room while some handyman is fixing our phone that lets guests call from downstairs to say they are here. Apparently the phone has been unworkable for some time but because the apartment was vacant for 15 years.  Because we’re here, it is getting fixed. No problem. Except …je parle juste un peu français. Ya know. Hubster (who speaks better French) is in England for work. So a little bit of well parsed words, some pantomime and shrugging of shoulders and whatever… he gets started. Then he gets a call. And he proceeds to pace up and down our little hall while holding an extremely loud conversation. I wish I understood French so I could at least eavesdrop. (Good reason to learn French.) But anyways, he is drilling away in the wall, without any forewarning because of course (bien sur) the language gap…. as I try to think a thought and all I can think is how bizarre this scene is…

It’s the word of the week.


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So, How’s It Going?

Starting the week, my personal commitment was, ‘I will only eat one croissant a week.’ Then, “have just a few croissants a week.” But that, too, turned out to be too much restraint. There is no self-discipline I can muster strong enough to withstand the amazing local croissants and baguettes just a block away. Plus, kiddo has become enthusiastic about going and getting what he calls “the happiness”. Paris is going to work out FINE, people. Caloric, yes. But, also, fine.

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It took a bit to “get settled”. We rented a fully furnished apartment. So I thought settling in would involve the complex act of … unpacking bags, and BOOM, done. But we kept figuring out things we needed… from umbrellas, to hangers. Now that seems inconsequential, yes? But as we went (again, and again…. and again) to the markets to find stuff, I got crazy tired of this move. (like whiny, complaining, irritated kind of crazy tired.) At some point it seemed ludicrous because we’ve been doing this nonstop for about 6 months and I thought we were done, already.  We stood in front of the dishwashing soap section of Monoprix trying to figure out something. Curt knew the translation for the word salt–> sel. When you don’t know the language, figuring this stuff out is like studying hieroglyphics. When you see three letters in a row that make the word, you get so excited. Whoohoo. But there were no boxes marked dishwashing Sel. But some boxes had sel as part of their description so I then figured out it must be called something else. Like an informal word or something. So, 20 minutes later, we figured it out. But OMG. This turns every errand of 20 items into a mind-boggling, 2 hour-long, and sometimes herculean task. (Have I complained enough???!! Okay, let’s move on…). The boys got me to go for a walk just to remind me … that, you know…We Now Live in Paris. Sooo… GET OVER IT. (which, by the way, worked).

Parisians

Recommendations of this week:

–       To drink: A Manhattan scotch blend that is ridiculously good. Found at LMDW. Seriously. If you come to Paris, go here. Tell Stanislaus that Nilofer sent you. You can thank me later. And you will.

–       To do: Kiddo fell in love with chess all over again. He is whomp*ing*ly good. If you are into chess, go meet up with the “old” guys in Luxembourg Gardens.

–       Plan: Bastille Day in Paris (July 14th) is a crazy-amazing celebration. They turn buildings into flags and stuff. Come one day. In every neighborhood, you are invited to go to the local firehouse for “open house”, to dance the night away.

–       To eat: La Cremerie (9 Rue des 4 Vents, 75006 Paris). Bistro that serves ! 10 dishes and matches wines to what you eat. I had the duck and OH my my.

–       To read: In the NYT, there was a great OpEd on value of learning language. Kiddo and I just did four days of class. More on that next week. But the bottom line is “je nes comprende pas” now rolls off my tongue. 😉


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Encoded.

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The last two days, Kiddo and I have been taking language immersion class.

Our heads hurt to no end. But a good friend, Doug, recently reminded me that learning a new language is to also look at the world anew. He said he has a friend who is a professor of computer linguistics in Hong Kong and that he teaches computers to translate between languages by comparing large bodies of written works in different languages. Along the way, the professor realized that he has discovered something key in the way a human mind works. 

Language defines the way we think, which can also limit thinking.  And that one of the richest things a human can experience is learning a new language, and the cool insights will come from ideas that you can’t translate. His note said he envied me, because “You will learn a new way of seeing the world.”

To which I can only say… “on puet esperer” — one can hope.

 

 


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Bastille Day

We’ve been here for days but I’ve not had a chance to just walk around and enjoy this beautiful city we’ve moved to. After another long  and tedious excursion to Monoprix (the closest US equivalent is probably Target) where we spent much-too-long to find dish washer salt and cutting boards and such, I left Kiddo and his dad to go home with all our bags while I took a slight break to walk around St. Germain de Pres area and then back “home” to our apartment.

Found some musicians playing. Bien sur. It is, of course, tourist season. The shop displays had a heavy world cup focus. And passed Isabel Marant‘s shop on Rue de Jacob. I used to love this brand but she has gotten so overpriced for the quality… But still loved seeing the window displays. Noticed the architecture…so ordinary and yet so French. Passed by many bridges… Startled a pigeon … Noticed the different shades of ochre and limestone.. And, appreciated how much pride the French have for their country… Flags are flying EVERYWHERE today (helicopters above regularly) because of Bastille Day celebrations.

 

It’s a joy to have the sun come out, too. 

Bloom where Planted

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Today, we went to the market and church.

The Marche Raspail is as overpriced a farmers market as you can get. We’ve been to a lot of markets in our day — and we thought we understood what highway robbery was. But alas, we’ve found a new level of tourism pricing. We went early and it was a rainy morning in Paris, so the best part was the quiet walk over. Picked up these roses (12 Euros for the ten) to spruce up our place. Also picked up a 33 Euro poulet roti (rotisserie chicken) and cried from the overcharge on the way home. {For those of you not familiar with the currency exchange rate, that was a $50 take home meal.} Not quite what we expected since we were used to getting the same in Aix-en-Provence for about 8 or 9 Euro.

Afterwards, we went to the American Church in Paris, near the quai d’orsay. About a 15 minute walk from our apartment. We only have one umbrella so we took turns getting wet. The church was beautiful, and I’ve been there before. It was better than I remember but that was probably because the family was with me. Kiddo seemed to really like the stained glass. And, the choir today was EPIC. Enough so that even Curt took notice. They seem very welcoming, and the sermon was nuanced enough to be really interesting, on the parable from Matthew on sowing seeds on poor dirt. I think this could be a great new church home. But we still need to check out St George’s, and the American cathedral in Paris.

We are trying to find the new routines that will help us not just survive, but to thrive.

Customized

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Getting settled in involves running to the store to get supplies like laundry soap, bathroom organizing trays, etc. But here, in Paris, you can’t get it all in one trip, because you have to hand carry it back …on foot, to your place. So that means many many trips. It is a bit exhausting. And quite tedious. (For kiddo, it is super boring.) But, also stressful because for each shopping trip, you have to interact with other people and kiddo and I are really not able to communicate. So each thing becomes more loaded up, literally. 

So when the fine spirits store guy mentioned he was doing a scotch tasting the next day, it was tempting to go take a break from the tedium, and check it out. Met up with Tim and Nancy again, joined by their two friends … Fellow professorial types. And we tasted. The guy — the manager of the store, Stanislaus, asked me later what I thought. I got right into the French tradition by actually telling him what was good or not rather than just doing the nice-nice thing that the French dislike about Americans. That got him clearer on my tastes so he let me taste something he had created recently — scotch blend and … I loved it so much that he let me bottle some up for myself and take it home. 

So first purchases include soap, detergent, …and a scotch blend. Priorities. 🙂 

 

 

Wall o Scotch

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LMDW Fine Spirits

On Friday, we met friends in Paris for lunch. Tim and his wife, Nancy, are in town from New Zealand, for some conferences. 

We invited them to lunch at Relais de Entrecôte for our favorite steak and fries treat. Kiddo was a little zombie-ish given the four adults having a conversation, plus … The jet lag issue.  

Then they introduced us to what will surely be a favorite haunt, LMDW, fine spirits store. You can find it near the Place d’ Odean, in the 6th. Just stand in the center of the Place; you won’t miss it. Wall’o’scotch. 

They bought us our first Paris housewarming present: Nikki whiskey. How perfect is that? Pretty darn perfect. 

Nook

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We arrived at the apartment at the scheduled time, only to wait. We had some croissants with us (picked up on the way from our local boulangerie, near the Solferino metro station) but those took about two minutes to eat (hungry, jet lagged people love carbs in general but French carbs are the best!) so we spent about half an hour in the rain … just waiting.

We got let into the building by the concierge, Nabilla. She turned out to be lovely. Made us feel quite welcome.

Curt and I first just lingered as we waited for our appointed person to come give us the keys but then seeing it could be awhile, just started settling in. But kiddo found his own spot in his room, and settled in to read more of the Ranger’s Apprentice. When I went to take a picture of him quietly reading in his book, he looked up. (He looks tired, doesn’t he… We all are!)

 

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The Ride

We had five big bags to check (along with two bags each to carry on the flight), so the limo company sent a stretch limo. Very big, very grand, but also silly. 

Our drive to the airport.

On the other side, arriving in Paris, the driver of a Mercedes SUV was able to fit all 11 pieces of luggage and the four of us. We were only a little bit scrunched. But the difference between USA and EU was evident. 

So happy to be here.

 

Departing

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I got sentimental when we were on the jetway, tearing up. I think it was the fact we were leaving our closest friends.  

Lingered on the idea that on this coming Monday afternoon, I wouldn’t be doing a walkntalk with my best friend Katie Keating. We have been doing it for months now. Through the chaos of the move, it had become the constant. And I just choked up with the people I would miss, the routines that were now gone. 

Kiddo saw the tear fall, and asked why I was sad. When I told him that we were leaving so many friends behind, and a place I’ve lived in since I was 4 and a half, he said to me, “Yes, it’s true we’re leaving a great place. But we are going to an even better place. *Paris*. And we’ll make new friends.”

So, yes, we are departing. But … Also, arriving. 

 

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